Title: Carve Out.5 Helpful Tips for Photographing Snow and Ice1. Adjust Your Exposure. Snow is brighter than your camera’s exposure records it. Your job is to make the snow look pristine white, lighten the exposure but keep texture in the brightest areas. I normally set my Exposure Compensation to +1 for snow in direct sun or +1.5 for snow under overcast skies. I also suggest that you use Spot Metering.2. Dealing With Shadows. Shadows tend to go dark compared to sunlit snow. Cameras can’t record details in shadows even though your eyes can see it. So be aware of shadow areas and make them part of the composition. Depending on where you place your shadows - you can help bring out textures. So how do you fully avoid shadows? Cloudy days create no shadows, but a cloudy overcast can also make no textures visible in the snow. When this happens look for color subjects to add an accent to your shot.3. Adjusting White Balance. We all know that snow is white and reveals the color of the light shining on it. Shadows on snow are the color of the sky - blue. Highlights are the color of the sun - yellow in the midday and pink around dawn/dusk. You can use Auto White Balance or even a preset Cloudy or Sunny White Balance to help with getting your snow back to pure white but 9 times out of 10 you will need to do some form of white balance adjustment in post process.4. Capturing Falling Snow. If you want to record snowflakes falling through the air, find a dark background so the flakes will be visible. Try a shutter speed of 1/60 second or faster to stop their motion, or 1/30 to 1/15 second for streaks. One can also try fill flash for freeze falling flakes close to the camera.5. The Frost Factor. Extremely low temperatures cause patterns of frost and ice… and they tend to make fascinating pictures. Avoid touching the item you are photographing as even the slightest touch will make the frost fall off. Just like your touch, the slightest breeze makes frost fall like snow! Because of this one needs to work fast and take advantage of the moment. For photographing frost and ice patterns on items I recommend that you get a dedicated Macro Lens or if you are just starting out use your cameras Macro Setting for recording the details. Whether you are using a DSLR or Point And Shoot one may also want to think about using a tripod to help hold the camera steady for a sharp shot. I mean it is winter… you are going to be extra shaky!

Title: Carve Out.

5 Helpful Tips for Photographing Snow and Ice

1. Adjust Your Exposure. Snow is brighter than your camera’s exposure records it. Your job is to make the snow look pristine white, lighten the exposure but keep texture in the brightest areas. I normally set my Exposure Compensation to +1 for snow in direct sun or +1.5 for snow under overcast skies. I also suggest that you use Spot Metering.

2. Dealing With Shadows. Shadows tend to go dark compared to sunlit snow. Cameras can’t record details in shadows even though your eyes can see it. So be aware of shadow areas and make them part of the composition. Depending on where you place your shadows - you can help bring out textures. So how do you fully avoid shadows? Cloudy days create no shadows, but a cloudy overcast can also make no textures visible in the snow. When this happens look for color subjects to add an accent to your shot.

3. Adjusting White Balance. We all know that snow is white and reveals the color of the light shining on it. Shadows on snow are the color of the sky - blue. Highlights are the color of the sun - yellow in the midday and pink around dawn/dusk. You can use Auto White Balance or even a preset Cloudy or Sunny White Balance to help with getting your snow back to pure white but 9 times out of 10 you will need to do some form of white balance adjustment in post process.

4. Capturing Falling Snow. If you want to record snowflakes falling through the air, find a dark background so the flakes will be visible. Try a shutter speed of 1/60 second or faster to stop their motion, or 1/30 to 1/15 second for streaks. One can also try fill flash for freeze falling flakes close to the camera.

5. The Frost Factor. Extremely low temperatures cause patterns of frost and ice… and they tend to make fascinating pictures. Avoid touching the item you are photographing as even the slightest touch will make the frost fall off. Just like your touch, the slightest breeze makes frost fall like snow! Because of this one needs to work fast and take advantage of the moment. For photographing frost and ice patterns on items I recommend that you get a dedicated Macro Lens or if you are just starting out use your cameras Macro Setting for recording the details. Whether you are using a DSLR or Point And Shoot one may also want to think about using a tripod to help hold the camera steady for a sharp shot. I mean it is winter… you are going to be extra shaky!

Title: Hand-Me-Down. Ever wonder how the pros get the ultra-clear shots even in low light? How about the next step further… without using a tripod!!! Here are some of my tips for mastering handheld shooting. Do not fear a shutter speed as low as 1/10s or slower with a normal lens ever again.Terry’s 5 Tips for Handheld Shooting1. It’s all how you hold your camera! You must be firm enough to support it, yet maintain a comfortable stance - but keep in mind you do not want to pull or strain anything in the process. Camera strain is the top reason that you get “camera shakes” and fuzzy photos.2. Take time to properly set up your shot. Rifle-shooters need not apply! Take the time and set up your shots, proper planning helps reduce shakes and unexpected results.3. Breathing practice is not just for pregnant women! When you take a breath your camera will slightly move up and down causing your focal point to blur. The trick is to take a couple breaths and relax, steady your heartbeat. When you are ready to fire the shot, take a deep breath - exhale only slightly and then hold your breath. NOW SQUEEZE THE TRIGGER! Of course don’t hold your breath for too long, I would had to be the reason that you pass out! 4. Learn your body language. Body language in photography is all about being comfortable… the more comfortable you are the less pressure you will apply to your camera. Use your surroundings to steady your body - a tree makes the perfect monopod when you lean on it! Some of my best shots where when I leaned my camera on the top of ledge or railing… look around, you will be surprised what help is around you. 5. Self control - rapid fire is for the devil! This is the most important and often overlooked camera skill. There is nothing sexy about a photographer who “sprays and prays” to get the shot. When you properly pull your camera’s trigger the camera will not move. Shots should NEVER come as a surprise to you, and yes I said never. When you practice good self control this will also help take away your body’s natural tendency to “jump” from anticipating the shoot and help you to hold your camera still after shooting. 

Title: Hand-Me-Down.

Ever wonder how the pros get the ultra-clear shots even in low light? How about the next step further… without using a tripod!!!

Here are some of my tips for mastering handheld shooting. Do not fear a shutter speed as low as 1/10s or slower with a normal lens ever again.

Terry’s 5 Tips for Handheld Shooting

1. It’s all how you hold your camera! You must be firm enough to support it, yet maintain a comfortable stance - but keep in mind you do not want to pull or strain anything in the process. Camera strain is the top reason that you get “camera shakes” and fuzzy photos.

2. Take time to properly set up your shot. Rifle-shooters need not apply! Take the time and set up your shots, proper planning helps reduce shakes and unexpected results.

3. Breathing practice is not just for pregnant women! When you take a breath your camera will slightly move up and down causing your focal point to blur. The trick is to take a couple breaths and relax, steady your heartbeat. When you are ready to fire the shot, take a deep breath - exhale only slightly and then hold your breath. NOW SQUEEZE THE TRIGGER! Of course don’t hold your breath for too long, I would had to be the reason that you pass out!

4. Learn your body language. Body language in photography is all about being comfortable… the more comfortable you are the less pressure you will apply to your camera. Use your surroundings to steady your body - a tree makes the perfect monopod when you lean on it! Some of my best shots where when I leaned my camera on the top of ledge or railing… look around, you will be surprised what help is around you.

5. Self control - rapid fire is for the devil! This is the most important and often overlooked camera skill. There is nothing sexy about a photographer who “sprays and prays” to get the shot. When you properly pull your camera’s trigger the camera will not move. Shots should NEVER come as a surprise to you, and yes I said never. When you practice good self control this will also help take away your body’s natural tendency to “jump” from anticipating the shoot and help you to hold your camera still after shooting. 

Title: Standing Out.One thing that stood out in San Francisco was the cities abundance of Public Art. I will go a step further… the city and their patrons respect for public art. What do I mean by respect? San Francisco, like other cities, is full of rich street art and graffiti. You can’t help but notice the slap art (sticker art) on street signs, mail boxes and even wall… but one thing you will not see in San Francisco is the tagging of public art. I have always felt that street artists are the front runners of public art and in San Francisco they show respect for not only their art, but for all art. That is what I noticed. 

Title: Standing Out.

One thing that stood out in San Francisco was the cities abundance of Public Art. I will go a step further… the city and their patrons respect for public art. What do I mean by respect? San Francisco, like other cities, is full of rich street art and graffiti. You can’t help but notice the slap art (sticker art) on street signs, mail boxes and even wall… but one thing you will not see in San Francisco is the tagging of public art. I have always felt that street artists are the front runners of public art and in San Francisco they show respect for not only their art, but for all art. That is what I noticed. 

Title: Longevity.I will totally admit that I’m still searching and trying to figure out what I believe in the afterlife, deities and practices. One this is for sure… I sure love taking photos of their iconic figures. I guess that is a start, right?

Title: Longevity.

I will totally admit that I’m still searching and trying to figure out what I believe in the afterlife, deities and practices. One this is for sure… I sure love taking photos of their iconic figures. I guess that is a start, right?